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Saturday, February 27, 2010

Bahamas Trip April 2002

Thanks to John & Anne on "Sundowner" who told us about this delightful place, I am writing this in "Lungta's" own private dock, a basin in the Grand Lucayan Waterway on Grand Bahama Island.

It was built as part of a grandiose scheme in the 1950's by an American financier, Wallace Groves, who developed what is now Freeport with its casinos, duty free shopping and hotels, but the whole area around here is still almost totally deserted. Apart from us, we have seen only a few sports fishing boats who use it as a shortcut to the Abaco Islands. There is a bridge with 26 ft clearance which blocks it for yachts.

As we sailed down the coast we could see several plumes of smoke rising into the sky but thought nothing of them - maybe someone burning off the bush (mostly casuarinas). Little did we think "Lungta" would be caught up in a bush fire. That evening we saw the fires coming nearer, and decided to move away so re-anchored nearer the entrance.

However on our second night, at about 3.30 a.m., a sudden gust of wind woke us up. The smell of burnt wood and smoke was even stronger and the flames were at the edge of the canal. Our cat "Torpedo" was on the stern standing on her hind legs and attempting to catch large sparks and pieces of burning ash. Earlier we watched in fascination as the flames devoured trees and an abandoned house which literally went up in flames, but the wind had got up and we were now directly downwind. We hurriedly up anchored and motored through thick smoke back to our original spot. In the morning we could see (and smell!) a large area of blackened vegetation still smoldering in places.

But to go back to our narrative. We left the Ortega River with Richard as passenger on the morning of the 10th April 2002 and later that afternoon dropped him off at Mayport at the mouth of the St John's River. We then backtracked slightly and found a quiet though mosquito infested anchorage just of the Intracoastal Waterway (the ICW).

The next morning we headed out to sea with everything lashed and stowed and then began our first offshore passage for seven months. It turned out to be a long and arduous thrash to windward all through that day, that night and into the afternoon of the next day. We were very glad to see the buoy marking the shoal off Cape Canaveral and at last head for the harbour entrance. Through a lock and then found an excellent anchorage where we slept well. The next day we explored the harbour by dinghy and found the Cocoa Beach Yacht Club with a welcoming bar.

As south winds continued to be forecast we continued down the Intra Coastal Waterway, anchoring each night, except for Vero Beach where we picked up a buoy at the Municipal Marina. Whilst outside the laundry room I was approached by a yachtie who had just arrived back from the Bahamas and with a taxi coming in a few minutes.

"Would I like some food from their freezer, otherwise it will go into the garbage?" Of course I said "Yes!" and came away with lamb chops, Cornish Hens (similar to small chickens and delicious), bacon, frozen Daiquiri mixers and I don't know what else. I did thank him profusely!

We went to the movies here ("The Panic Room" with Jodie Foster, but don't bother!) and revisited a riverfront bar. Then on to Fort Pierce where we entered the Atlantic and back in to anchor at Lake Worth Inlet. Our old friend Jim (who Ian crossed the Atlantic with many years ago) met us here and drove us around West Palm Beach for a very pleasant evening out.

On the 22nd April we crossed to West End on Grand Bahama Island with Richard again on board - he was taking no chances with sea sickness and won't mind me saying that the Dramamine he took had a strong soporific action! It was a very calm and windless crossing, the Gulf Stream was like a millpond and we motored the whole 55 NM. We cleared Customs and Immigration here and anchored in shallow water to the north of the marina.

The next morning we said goodbye to Richard who flew back to the mainland and continued down the coast to the Lucayan Waterway. Apart from the fires we vastly enjoyed our time here, going on dinghy expeditions visiting the beaches and snorkeling round a reef in the beautiful clear Bahamas water, with a barbecue most evenings. We timed our cocktail hour when a ray used to jump out of the water near us with a mighty splash. A blue heron also kept us company in the early evenings.

After all the solitude we spent one night in a marina where we met a delightful (and interesting) English couple, Holly & David. They had circumnavigated Africa in the last three years and had just sold their Moody 47 to Canadians. As the new owners were non-drinkers we were bequeathed all their booze, including Madagascan Pastis, Gordon's Gin, vodka, dry martini and South African Peach Schnapps. Thanks again Holly & David, we hope you had an uneventful flight home!

We then returned to our favourite spot in the Waterway, but all good things must come to an end, so returned to the West End anchorage and left early the following morning for Lake Worth Inlet. Again we had a smooth crossing, getting to the entrance in the early evening of the 5th May.

What a contrast to the peace and quiet we had recently enjoyed! Jet skis, overpowered speed boats each equipped with two 250 hp outboard motors, top-heavy looking sports fishing boats etc. were racing in and out of the entrance, crossing ahead of us impatiently and generally having a marvelous time.

We found our old anchorage which was somewhat quieter, and on Monday morning dinghied ashore to find Customs and Immigration. We waited for a rather difficult Inspector to deal with us but eventually got our new visas, valid for eight months (usually only six allowed). Customs would not issue us with a new Cruising Permit as the old one was not due to expire for another two weeks. However they told us that as long as we did not leave Jacksonville we had nothing to fear.

We will leave Lake Worth tonight for the final 250 miles to Jacksonville and the Ortega River. The winds are forecast south to southeast, ten to fifteen knots.

P.S. We arrived back in our old berth at the Ortega River Boat Yard on Thursday 9th May 2002, after a great time riding the Gulf Stream north. We could have done with more wind at times, but the old girl averaged over six knots the whole way.
Some pictures to go in here if I can find them!

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